Worth a visit: Kidwelly Castle, Carmarthenshire

IT’S right up there as one of my favourite family outings - a wander around historic Kidwelly Castle.

Sure, there’s a decent health warning about climbing the ramparts, stone walls and spiral staircases, but children (and adults) love exploring.

Our family’s most recent visit was in March, 2025. Here’s a few photos - and some words to explain what the castle is all about.

Kidwelly Castle is a formidable stronghold, proudly overlooking the River Gwendraeth in the historic ‘Black Cat’ town of Kidwelly in Carmarthenshire.

Kidwelly Castle's story begins in the early 12th century, around 1106, when it was established by the Normans under Roger, Bishop of Salisbury. Its strategic location was crucial for controlling the surrounding territory and securing Norman influence in the region.

The castle's initial form was a more basic earth and timber structure, a "ringwork." This early fortification laid the groundwork for the more substantial stone castle that would develop over time.

The castle's history is intertwined with the turbulent relationship between the Welsh and the Normans. It witnessed numerous conflicts, including the revolt of Gwenllian ferch (daughter of) Gruffydd in 1136, a powerful symbol of Welsh resistance.

Over the centuries, Kidwelly Castle underwent significant transformations. In the late 13th and 14th centuries, it was extensively rebuilt and strengthened, particularly under the control of the de Chaworth and Lancaster families.

Key features of the castle, such as the impressive inner ward with its circular towers and the formidable gatehouse, were added during this period.

The concentric design of the castle, with its inner and outer walls, reflects the evolving military architecture of the medieval era. This design provided multiple layers of defense, making the castle exceptionally resilient.

The large gate house, that is seen upon approach to the castle, is a very impressive part of the castle. Its construction took more than 100 years to complete. There’s a lovely view of the town’s St Mary’s Church through the gate house.

Kidwelly Castle is renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture. Visitors can explore the various sections of the castle, including the inner and outer wards, the towers, and the gatehouse.

The castle's strategic design and defensive features - such as the arrow slits, machicolations (areas where stones and burning objects could be dropped on attackers), and fortified walls - provide valuable insights into medieval military engineering.

The view from the top of the castle walls provides a great look over the surrounding countryside.

As the need for military strongholds declined, Kidwelly Castle gradually lost its strategic importance.

In the 20th century, efforts were made to preserve and restore the castle, ensuring that its historical significance would be maintained for future generations.

Today, Kidwelly Castle is managed by Cadw, the Welsh government's historic environment service. It is a popular tourist attraction, drawing visitors from around the world.

Princess Gwenllian’s association with Kidwelly is one of the most powerful stories from the castle’s history.

Gwenllian was the daughter of Gruffudd ap Cynan, Prince of Gwynedd. She married Gruffydd ap Rhys, Prince of Deheubarth.

During a period of intense conflict between the Welsh and the Norman invaders, Gwenllian took a stand.

In 1136, while her husband was away seeking support, she led a force against the Norman lord Maurice de Londres, who held Kidwelly Castle.

Gwenllian led her army into battle near Kidwelly Castle.

Despite her courage, her forces were defeated by the Normans.

She was captured and beheaded, and her son Morgan was killed in the battle.

It is said that another son, Maelgwn, was also executed after the battle.

The site of the battle, near Kidwelly Castle, is known as Maes Gwenllian (Gwenllian's Field). 

The Princess Gwenllian Centre in Kidwelly is a community centere named in her honour, demonstrating the continued importance of her legacy to the town.

Kidwelly castle was the target of her attack, and therefore is a key location in her story.

Gwenllian's story became a symbol of Welsh resistance against Norman rule.

Her actions inspired further uprisings, and her memory has been preserved in Welsh folklore and history.

The legend of her ghost haunting Maes Gwenllian adds to the mystique surrounding her story.

For admission prices and opening times, see the Cadw website page for Kidwelly Castle - https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/kidwelly-castle